Kofla Olivieri Rides The Tail of the Dragon

Deal’s Gap (aka the Tail of the Dragon) is without question one of the finest roads in the US. It is located in the beautiful Smoky Mountains at the Tennessee/North Carolina border where US 129 intersects NC 28. 318 turns in 11 miles.

Riding the Dragon is a lot of fun. Riding it fast is a challenge which brings motorcycle enthusiasts from all over the world to try their skills against it. Crashes are common on every given weekend (as the Tree of Shame can attest) and more than a few have lost their lives while trying to challenge it.

Have you been to Deals Gap and ridden the Tail of the Dragon? The Dragon has been on my bucket list for a while, I didn't think it would happen so soon. Last year a group of friends from the Philadelphia area invited me to spend a week with them at Deals Gap.

I figured I was more than due for a vacation, so why not ride my bike to the Dragon, hang out with my Philly friends and relax while exploring the area. I wasn't yet sold on the idea of riding solo to the resort, but decided to make the reservation anyway. I expected the round trip to be over 1,500 hundred miles.

In anticipation of the trip I decided it was time for new rubbers, which I didn’t want to make on tires with borderline tread.

As a side note, I am glad I purchased the ThrottleMeister cruise control in conjunction with a Crampbuster that I used on this long trip. My wrist and my chronic arthritis were glad I did, these two accessories were truly a lifesaver.

Although I am not an OCD person, for months ahead of the trip I was obsessed constantly checking out the weather reports, multiple times a day. I hate riding my bike when it rains; as you know, riding a motorcycle in the rain can get dangerous real quick.

I kind of went into panic mode about 15 days before the trip when tropical storm Alberto brought heavy rain and flooding, then a second storm system hit some areas of Tennessee where severe weather and flash floods were possible due to the heavy rain. So to say I was worried about a rained out vacation was an understatement. But I digress.

My friends left for the trip to Deals Gap a few days earlier, they also transported their bikes on a trailer: a Suzuki SV1000s, a Suzuki V-Strom 1000, and two BMW R 1200 Rs.

Sunday morning, just as the sun was rising, I packed my saddlebags and tail bag, stopped for gas and headed down I-95 on my Kawasaki Ninja ZX-14.

Before hitting up the interstate I had to turn around and return home. Ooops. The weather forecast for Sunday and Monday indicated mostly cloudy with a chance of showers and I realized I had forgotten to pack my rain gear.

Four and a half hours into the ride, I was right on schedule. About one hour and 45 minutes out of Washington DC merging onto I-81 all at once the sky became dark and all hell broke loose. It started to rain hard. I’ve been caught in the rain before, but this felt similar to what Noah experienced when the earth flooded.

I pulled up under an underpass to put on my rain gear. The storm dumped buckets of water, thunder, and lightning. It rained so hard I had to pull off to the side of the road four times, the storm blocked my visibility of the road. Intermittent torrential downpour for the entire trip to the hotel in Roanoke, Virginia. I was so glad when I arrived to the hotel, two hours later.

It wasn’t raining anymore when I woke up, but the clouds hovered overhead. Monday morning was an uneventful ride. Practically no traffic on I-81. It was a dull dreary overcast day, the sun shining through the rain clouds. Noticed 18 wheelers transporting loads of livestock (live pigs and chickens) heading west on I-81. The nauseating stench kept me alert for several miles. I counted my blessings though, at least it wasn’t raining; wore my rain gear all the way to Deals Gap, just in case.

An issue I wasn’t counting on was finding ways to eat healthy. How can I resist eating junk food while traveling on a long trip? For the first time in 6 months I regretted not eating healthy on the road. I felt guilty about it; to think I had to go to Virginia to wreck my diet having breakfast at Bojangles.

I knew I was getting closer to my destination when I noticed the traffic congestion before the US 129 exit and the Knoxville and “Tennessee Welcomes You” sign on I-81.

Once I saw the “Motorcycles High Crash Area Next 11 Miles” sign on US 129, before the Tail of the Dragon scenic overlook, I realized I was almost there.

I pulled over and took a picture from the Tail of the Dragon scenic overlook. Rolling into the Dragon, it’s easy to see why it draws its fair share of motorcyclists each year.

On my way down to the resort I also noticed the photographers on the Dragon, sitting in lawn chairs taking pictures. As you can see on this image, just to be on the safe side I was still wearing my rain gear.

When I arrived at Deals Gap Motorcycle Resort and tried to edit some of the pictures I took earlier during the trip, I learned we had free access to the internet from the rooms. The bad news is that I also realized that I forgot to bring my laptop power cord. In a matter of hours my laptop battery went dead. Since I am a half glass full kind of guy, I figured that it meant I’ll have more time to ride and explore the area than spending time editing pictures.

My very first morning at Deals Gap, I spent some time during breakfast enjoying the atmosphere and the camaraderie among new found biker friends.

A friend had warned me about the Dragon years ago. He said: “be very careful and do not push your skill level. Simply ride your bike and enjoy the experience”. This piece of advice became more real when two guys from Canada arrived to the parking lot, unloaded their bikes from their pickup truck and by the time I finished breakfast, one of them crashed when he was unable to negotiate a turn.

Some people fail to realize that the Dragon requires skill and lots of concentration. I think the most challenging part of the road is watching for oncoming vehicles getting into your lane. I don’t shy away from the twisties but I am no knee dragger, I have no desire to fall off a cliff either. Especially since my bike have to be in tip top shape to take me home. As Clint Eastwood once wisely said in the movie Dirty Harry, “a man has to know his limitations”. Besides, the speed limit at the Dragon is 30 mph and is strictly enforced.

After breakfast, my friends invited me to ride to the border of North Carolina and Georgia. I declined and remained behind to relax a bit and wash and cleanup my bike after riding hundreds of miles the previous two days. Deals Gap Motorcycle Resort offers a place for a quick bike wash, and provides used rags to clean up your bike.

Afterwards, I headed to the Dragon (US 129). In my opinion, this is a very challenging ride, it would take me lots of practice to be able to maneuver my Kawasaki Ninja ZX-14 in these tight turns. Personally I think the Dragon is perfect for smaller sport bikes and supermoto motards.

Most places I visited were deserted, I had the road all by myself. I heard from many people that the best time to visit, whether is the Dragon or any of the classic roads that surround the area is during the week. They say that during the weekends there is a lot of traffic, and racer wannabe’s who use it as a racetrack.

I spent most of the day riding around, exploring the area, taking lots of pictures and planning my future rides. I stopped by the Cheoah Dam, used for the "jump" scene in the movie "The Fugitive". It is only 7 minutes away from Deals Gap Motorcycle Resort.

To unwind, after my friends returned from their ride, we went to Tapoco Tavern Restaurant and Lodge for dinner. The restaurant is just a few minutes from the Cheoah Dam, had dinner sitting outside by the river. The Iceberg Wedge Salad was the best healthy meal I had since I left Philadelphia. You can check out the restaurant menu ---->HERE

Wednesday was the day to visit Cherohala Skyway. The Cherohala Skyway with its sweeping curves and breathtaking views is a very relaxed fast ride, often patrolled by law enforcement. I actually preferred riding the Cherohala Skyway than the Dragon.

The road climbs over mountains as high as 5,390 ft, with stunning mountain views. It was virtually deserted. No gas stations, restaurants or other facilities (except restrooms and picnic benches) are available for 36 miles. So make sure you have enough gas.

My last full day at Deals Gap, my friends planned to ride to the “Road to Nowhere” in Bryson City and visit the tunnels. I had decided to visit the Wheels Through Time Motorcycle Museum on my way back from The Rattler. So I followed them through the twisties of Moonshiner NC 28 to Bryson City, then split up and continued on route 19 to Maggie Valley and NC 209 “The Rattler”. The exit to NC 209 is not far from route 19 and the Wheel Through Time Motorcycle Museum. It’s about 2 hours from Deals Gap to the entrance of The Rattler, so it was time to fill up the gas tank.

Unbeknownst to me, walking into Ferguson Supply to pay for gas was like a walk in a time capsule. The store is like a social hub of the community. I also got to meet the owner of Ferguson Supply, James Ferguson, who happens to be the Chairman of Southwestern Conservation Council and a local celebrity.

The man and his family have been involved in the community for over a hundred years. Tons of family pictures, awards, plaques and pictures of him with famous politicians decorate his office. This mom and pop store provides unparalleled family service, and the staff makes you feel welcome.

I went in for gas, and ended up having lunch and chatting with Mr. Ferguson about his family pics, including a 50 year old pic in his office of people making/distilling moonshine.

Unfortunately I stayed chatting with Mr. Ferguson longer that I had planned. Talking to him was like getting into a travel machine, and getting free 20th century history lesson. You can read more about Ferguson’s Supply impact in the community -----> HERE

Before leaving, Mr Ferguson gave me directions to the old country store & gas station located in Luck, North Carolina. The Pink J. Plemmons Groceries and Feeds old gas station has been closed for the last 50 years.

I had such a long day riding my bike that I skipped going to the Wheels Through Time Motorcycle Museum. From The Rattler (NC 209) I went straight back to US 74, NC 28, US 129 and to Deals Gap Motorcycle Resort.

Took a quick shower and hang out with some of the guys in the parking lot. It was a great time to talk bikes and share stories with them. The people I encountered were pretty cool, you will meet folks from all over the globe. All my expectations about the trip were exceeded.

It was early Friday morning when I left Deals Gap Motorcycle Resort after having breakfast, and headed to the hotel in Petersburg, Virginia.

My friends stayed at the Dragon until Sunday. In my opinion, one week is not enough time to get to most roads, and to do other activities that don’t involve riding, like hiking, kayaking, and canoeing.

I arrived home to Philly Saturday afternoon. I was fortunate to encounter excellent weather both days. I rode 1,801 miles in total. My Kawasaki Ninja ZX-14 performed flawlessly.

This is my first time at the Tail of the Dragon, I hope is not my last.